Material Sample WO-48
Matter Loci x Matter Globalis — Material Samples
BIO 50 24th Biennial of Design — Ljubljana, Slovenia
Material N˚1 for ML x MG is Slovenian Wool.
In Slovenia sheep are traditionally reared to produce milk (Bovec and Istrian pramenka) and meat (Jezersko-Solčava). As part of the natural and cultural heritage of Slovenia, these specific breeds are well adapted to the local environment and thrive in the mountainous pastures of their homeland. Wool is a by-product of sheep rearing. Yet the sheep are sheared twice a year, resulting in approximately 160 tonnes of wool of all quality grades. About half of this wool is suitable for handicrafts, while the remainder is discarded, burned or stored unprotected in attics.
Both the quality and quantity of wool depend on genetic as well as environmental factors. Particularly type of breed, gender, age and health, and partly rearing conditions, such as food and climate, are influential.
General characteristics of wool also apply to Slovenian wool; it is insulating and self-extinguishing, renewable and cleaned by aeration. The former are all attractive characteristics for applications in apparel. Furthermore, Slovenian wool possesses specific characteristics that set it apart from the more general types of wool. On the whole Slovenian wool has a coarser texture because of the thickness of the fibres. Because of this, makers and designers are challenged to come up with suitable applications for the material. This is a creative challenge presented by a precious local resource.
About 120,000 sheep graze Slovenian meadows.
— Sheep shearing once or twice a year yields a maximum of approximately 1.4 kilos of wool, which translates into approximately 160 tonnes of wool of all quality grades.
— About half of this wool is suitable for handicrafts, while the remainder is discarded, burnt or stored unprotected in attics.
— In Slovenia, Balkan pramenka breeds are the most popular, including the Jezersko-Solčava, Bovec, Istrian pramenka and Bela krajina breeds
— In Slovenia, sheep are not reared only for wool. Traditionally, sheep are reared to produce milk (Bovec, improved Bovec sheep, Istrian pramenka) and meat (Jezersko-Solčava and improved Jezersko-Solčava breed). Here, wool is a by-product of sheep rearing.
— The quality and quantity of wool depend on genetic and environmental factors, particularly on breed, gender, age and health, and partly on rearing conditions, such as food and climate
— Most wool from Slovenian sheep breeds is rough, and the fibre diameter does not meet textile industry standards. White wool is softer than dark, and, therefore, more expensive.
— Sheared wool must be sorted and washed. Rainwater or water from the public water supply should be used. There are no special washing stations, so breeders and sellers make their own arrangements. Breeders with smaller quantities of wool can wash their own wool and use it to make products for domestic purposes or products sold locally.
— Washing and drying is followed by combing or carding, which can be done manually or by machine
— Combed wool is used for felting or is spun into yarn.
Collaborators:
Tina Hočevar
Eugenia Morpurgo
Evan Frenkel
Olivia de Gouveia
Tanja Pađan
Elena Fajt
Clara Vankerschaver
Nina Mlakar
Linda Ogrizek
Martina Obid
Tijana Todorovič
Tjaša Avsec
Nataša Kovač
Katarina Dovč
Nika Ravnik
pH15 (Lucija Jankovec, Nika Batista,
Katja Grčman, Maruša Kranjc,
Karmen Sedeljšak, Ana Jazbec, Elena Fajt)
24th Biennial of Design
Ljubljana, Slovenia
Location:
Muzej za arhitekturo in oblikovanje
Pot na Fužine 2
SI-1000 Ljubljana
Slovenia
Duration:
18.9.2014 — 7.12.2014
Related projects:
BIO50 — The Fashion System