Matter Loci x Matter Globalis — Open Call

BIO 50 24th Biennial of Design – Ljubljana, Slovenia

Matter Loci x Matter Globalis (ML x MG) is a fashion lab, a traveling exhibition and a living open archive. Through an open call, we asked local makers to produce a series of garments that explore and present local resources − in term of materials, creativity and production. The first open call focused on Slovenian wool as rare local material. The resulting archive documents both the products and processes involved in their realization. From amateur to professional, local traditions to global experimentation, ML x MG grows through the contributions of participants in the fashion system. ML x MG aims to generate new perspectives and real alternatives to the delocalized, contemporary system of fashion production and consumption.

 

For more info: www.matterlocimatterglobalis.com
ML x MG is a project developed for BIO50 Biennial of Design Ljubljana, Slovenia.

Open Call — English

 

MLxMG invites you to be part of the Open Call N˚1 Slovenian Wool.

 

You are invited to produce wearables that reveal the qualities of this distinctive material proving a value otherwise unknown to the fashion system at large. We encourage you to view it as a challenge to utilize this unique material in an innovative manner, to use your skills as makers and discover the special qualities of the wool.

 

We ask that you look to local resources, from traditional techniques to innovative industrial realities, and represent them at their best through your wearable.

 

We hope to inspire you with the MLxMG Statement of Intent.

 

And we anticipate that your work will become a source of inspiration for other makers, locally and globally.

Open Call — Slovenian

 

MLxMG vas vabi, da sodelujete pri javnem razpisu Slovenska volna.

 

Vabimo vas, da izdelate nosljive izdelke, ki odražajo specifične lastnosti materiala in izražajo novo vrednost glede na širši modni svet. Sprejmite izziv in inovativno uporabite edinstven material, tako da poskušate uporabiti vse svoje ustvarjalne veščine in odkriti posebne lastnosti volne.

 

Ozrite se k lokalnim virom, ki obsegajo vse od tradicionalnih tehnik in znanj do inovativnih industrijskih izvedb ter ji kar najbolje predstavite v svojem nosljivem izdelku.

 

Upamo, da vam bo izjava o nameri  laboratorija MLxMG v navdih.

 

Upamo, da bo vaše delo v navdih drugim lokalnim in globalnim ustvarjalcem.

Statement of Intent — English

 

Reveal the local potential. Investigate and document the specific opportunities in locally rooted tradition, skills and materials.

 

Harness the local opportunities. Embrace the unique qualities and opportunities that a territory presents and work with them to create solutions that address the local identity.

 

Innovate traditions. Look for opportunities in traditional, sometimes forgotten skills, materials and identities and re-imagine them for the present as well as the future.

 

What is local is global. Local solutions, when shared, have the potential to become solutions for a wider global reality.

 

Challenge the existing system. Identify the structure of the local fashion system and put it into debate.

 

Deconstruct it and reconstruct it to generate new visions and opportunities.

 

Experiment with different configurations. Treat the existing system as flexible elements – designers, makers, retailers and public are dynamic factors to examine. Unexpected connections can generate meaningful changes.

 

Take the actors out of their comfort zone. Your actors are all participants in the existing system. By changing the parameters of their processes you challenge them to create new materials, to utilize certain techniques and to develop collaboration.

 

Demand transparency as proof of honest production. Sharing your process and skills is the first step in generating a better understanding.

 

Redefine the origin of value. The value of materials and labor invested should translate in the final value of the garment.

 

Put systems before artifacts. Focus on innovative solutions to inject the existing system with a new way of thinking. The objects need to support the process but are not a goal in themselves.

 

Bring it back to a garment. Believe in the power of consumer objects. The artifacts, whether experimental or functional/wearable, need to support the process but they are not the goal in themselves.

 

Make it wearable. Only a wearable garment can be a convincing testimony to a functioning fashion system. The output of your process should defend itself as a practical object.

Statement of Intent — Slovenian

 

Odkrijte, kaj ponuja lokalno okolje. Raziščite in dokumentirajte konkretne priložnosti, ki temeljijo na lokalni tradiciji, veščinah in materialih.

 

Izkoristite lokalne danosti. Prepoznajte posebnosti in priložnosti, ki jih ponuja določeno okolje, in poskušajte z njimi ustvariti rešitve, ki obravnavajo lokalno identiteto.

 

Osvežite tradicijo. Raziščite tradicionalne, včasih že pozabljene veščine, materiale in znanja ter jim dodajte nove razsežnosti, ki so v duhu sedanjosti in prihodnosti.

 

Lokalno je globalno. Lokalne rešitve, ki se delijo globalno, lahko postanejo globalne rešitve.

 

Preizprašajte obstoječ sistem. Izluščite strukturo lokalnega sistema mode in jo postavite pod vprašaj.

 

Razvijte nove vizije in možnosti, tako da ga razstavite in ga vnovič sestavite.

 

Eksperimentirajte z različnimi postavitvami. Obstoječ sistem ni enovit, temveč sestavljen iz oblikovalcev, izdelovalcev, prodaje in javnosti, ki jih je treba preučiti kot dinamične dejavnike. Nepričakovane povezave lahko ustvarjajo pomembne spremembe.

 

Premaknite sestavne dele sistema z ustaljenega položaja. Vsi prispevajo k obstoječemu sistemu. Če spremenite parametre njihovih procesov, jih izzovete, naj ustvarijo nove materiale, uporabijo določene tehnike ali razvijejo sodelovanje.

 

Zahtevajte transparentnost kot dokaz poštene prakse. Omogočanje vpogleda v svoj proces in veščine je prvi korak k boljšemu razumevanju.

 

Na novo opredelite izvor vrednosti. Vrednost materiala in dela se mora odraziti v končni vrednosti oblačila.

 

Sistem ustvarjanja in izdelave ima prednost pred izdelkom samim. Osredotočite se na inovativne rešitve, ki jih lahko z novim načinom mišljenja uvedete v sistem. Izdelki morajo podpirati proces, vendar niso končni cilj.

 

Vrnite se k oblačilu. Zaupajte v moč predmetov potrošnje. Izdelki, ne glede na to, ali so eksperimentalni ali uporabni oziroma nosljivi, morajo podpirati proces, vendar niso končni cilj.

 

Obleka naj bo nosljiva. Samo nosljiva obleka lahko prepričljivo podpira delujoč sistem mode.

“We want to challenge this kind of mindset”.

 

Quite international members of Fashion system team are planning to challenge the mindset where everything from abroad is more valued than materials and design produced locally.

Open Call, 13 February 2014
The Fashion System

 

From textile production to retail, merchandising and all the stages in-between, the means by which we clothe ourselves are complex and multi-layered. Tradition and technology are part of the fashion industry, while links between designers, producers and consumers introduce new dynamics into the fashion system. Questioning the institution of fashion and its many facets, this team will seek to understand the human position within the machine that clothes us.

 

Reaction, 27 August 2014
Matter Loci x Matter Globalis

 

Matter Loci x Matter Globalis (ML x MG) is a fashion lab, a traveling exhibition and a living open archive. Through an open call, we asked local makers to produce a series of garments that explore and present local resources − in term of materials, creativity and production. The first open call focused on Slovenian wool as rare local material.
The resulting archive documents both the products and processes involved in their realization. From amateur to professional, local traditions to global experimentation, ML x MG grows through the contributions of participants in the fashion system. ML x MG aims to generate new perspectives and real alternatives to the delocalized, contemporary system of fashion production and consumption.

 

From Jury Report:

 

At a time of growing interest in folkloric and craft traditions, Fashion System is an intelligent and engaging approach to raising awareness of a neglected Slovenian resource.

Team Mentors

 

Tina Hočevar
Architect and designer, initiator of the Paul Malina project.

 

Eugenia Morpurgo
Designer, author of the Repair It Yourself (RIY) and footMade projects.

 

Evan Frenkel
Student at Design Academy Eindhoven, researcher of open and active clothing manufacturing systems.

Partners

 

Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, University of Ljubljana
www.ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Nataša Peršuh, SQUAT, Ljubljana
www.squat.si

 

Team members

 

Olivia de Gouveia
Tanja Pađan
Elena Fajt
Clara Vankerschaver
Nina Mlakar
Linda Ogrizek
Martina Obid
Tijana Todorovič
Tjaša Avsec
Nataša Kovač
Katarina Dovč
Nika Ravnik
pH15 (Lucija Jankovec, Nika Batista,
Katja Grčman, Maruša Kranjc,
Karmen Sedeljšak, Ana Jazbec, Elena Fajt)

Collaborators:
Tina Hočevar
Eugenia Morpurgo
Evan Frenkel
Olivia de Gouveia
Tanja Pađan
Elena Fajt
Clara Vankerschaver
Nina Mlakar
Linda Ogrizek
Martina Obid
Tijana Todorovič
Tjaša Avsec
Nataša Kovač
Katarina Dovč
Nika Ravnik
pH15 (Lucija Jankovec, Nika Batista,
Katja Grčman, Maruša Kranjc,
Karmen Sedeljšak, Ana Jazbec, Elena Fajt)

24th Biennial of Design
Ljubljana, Slovenia

 

Location:

Muzej za arhitekturo in oblikovanje
Pot na Fužine 2
SI-1000 Ljubljana
Slovenia

 

Duration:

18.9.2014 — 7.12.2014

 

Related projects:
BIO50 — The Fashion System

Matter Loci x Matter Globalis — Material Samples

Matter Loci x Matter Globalis — Results